Megala Chorafia Travel Guide
Some of our favourite places around Megala Chorafia
3 km from our villas in Megala Chorafia, is the tiny hamlet of Kalami with a choice of 2 tavernas and a quiet sandy beach, whilst a further 5 minute drive will bring you to the bustling seaside town of Kalives, with its numerous shops, tavernas and a local bank.
For somewhere different and quintessentially Cretan, take an afternoon’s drive from Megala Chorafia into the mountains to the tiny village of Samonas and stop in at The Eagle’s Nest Taverna. Katina will rustle up something for you, based on whatever ingredients are fresh that day, if you need a spot of lunch. Plus, – Katina is good friends with Roussa, who lives in the village and keeps the key to the remarkably beautiful Byzantine church of Agios Nikolaos, which is a couple of kilometres or so beyond the village. If you ask her nicely (and drive her there), she will open it for you, but please don’t leave it too late in the afternoon, as she has to milk her goats!
In Greek mythology, Aptera features as the site of the legendary musical contest between Sirens and Muses. After their defeat the Sirens shed the feathers of their wings, and cast themselves off the cliffs into the sea. Aptera literally means “wingless”.
Don’t miss a visit to the Turkish Castle of Aptera (also known as Koules Fortress) when staying at our villas in Magala Chorafia. The castle has impressive views over the vast bay and is one of the best preserved 19th century structures in Crete, built by Hussein Avni. Its construction began a year after the Cretan revolt of 1866 as one of several defensive towers built to suppress any further revolutions and regain control of the area. Overlooking the valley of Apokoronas and the port of Souda, it had great strategic advantages.
It was in fact the biggest defensive structure of its time in the region, boasting two towers, one facing west (towards Kerameia), and the other facing east (towards Kalyves). After the end of the Turkish Occupation, the fortress was used as a school for local children in Megala Chorafia.
The archeological site is also home to the Ancient Theatre of Aptera, looking out towards the white mountains, which could once hold approximately 3700 spectators and was built during the Hellenistic period. It was later modified during the Roman occupation (approximately 1st century AD). The theatre was only fully excavated by archeologists between 2012 and 2015, and is now used to host a variety of concerts and performances.
This area further features a Minoan vaulted tomb and baths from the 1st and 2nd century, with detailed information in both Greek and English, making it convenient for visitors to explore at their own pace.
The Tholos Tomb (14th-13th century BC) between Stylos and Aptera/Megala Chorafia is another interesting site in this area, which used to be a significant Minoan settlement. At the edge of the grove, you’ll find a simple gate secured with a padlock… and with the key hanging on a chain right there for you to use. Simply unlock the gate and step inside.
Once inside the grove, the tomb isn’t immediately obvious. To find it, follow the path diagonally to your right through the trees and look for a small, unassuming grass-covered mound. This “hillock” is actually the exterior roof of the ancient stone chamber, preserved under the earth for over 3,000 years. Descend a long, stone-lined walkway (the dromos) that cuts into the earth, leading you directly into the heart of the circular tomb. Standing inside this “beehive” structure, with the sunlight filtering down through the entrance, you may feel a connection to the Late Minoan era that you may not experience at larger, more crowded sites.
The village of Georgioupolis around 30 min drive from Megala Chorafia, is definitely worth a visit. This charming yet lively village boasts an incredible sandy beach, stretching for over 10 km to the east, lined with traditional sea view tavernas and bars, with sunbeds and umbrellas available to hire. One of the places to visit closer to town itself is the little Saint Nicholas Chapel, named after and dedicated to the patron saint of sailors. It is set on a tiny island off Georgioupolis, connected by a small rocky footpath.
Next to the quaint harbour, from where you can take a variety of boat tours such as dolphin spotting, island hopping etc, is the famous ‘Turtle River’. You can hire a canoe or a pedalo to watch the turtles in the clear blue water and enjoy the surrounding flora.
Lake Kournas, – the only natural freshwater lake in Crete, is surrounded by mountains and lush greenery and a true oasis on a hot day! Here you can take a dip in the calm, crystal clear water, spot fish and turtles while snorkeling or hire a pedalo (you can even get the ones with slides for the kids!). Hydrobikes and small electric boats are also available, or you can simply take a relaxing walk around the lake. There are several waterside tavernas serving traditional Greek food and refreshing drinks in the shade, with lovely views over the lake. It takes around 35 min to drive from Megala Chorafia to Lake Kournas.
and then